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[#48] Leica Club Air 2 ![]() |
and.t![]() 219.xxx.xxx.153 |
2005-10-02 00:33 | |
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[#49] Leica Club I want to join I owned M6, lens 21/f2.8, 28/f2.8, 50/f1.4, 90/f2.8 , APO135/f3.4 & R8 lens 24/f2.8 minilux, binocular 10x42 but now I changed to digital. |
lion![]() 203.xxx.xxx.29 |
2005-10-02 13:35 |
[#50] Leica Club New comers, please fill out the user list: 1.Pang : M6 (35/F2 and 50/F2) 2.Stanfield: M4P (was) 3.Rayan: FZ-10 4.Yukclee: M3 DS + M6, Lenses:50/F2,28/F2.8,35/F2,90/F2.8 5.And.t: M4+M6TTL+R6.2, Lenses: M35/1.4,M50/F2,R24/F2.4,R35/2,R100/F2.8 marco 6.2A3: M6TTL (what lenses) 7.xellshooter: Fx-7(ex-user),Lx-1(current). Leica manual film fans. hope one day I get one ^^ cheers 8.lo5boy: M6TTL + 50mm/F2.8 +35mm/F2 (looking for a LX1, leica? panasonic? 9.sugizo: Minilux zoom with flash light set. 10. Lion: M6, lens 21/f2.8, 28/f2.8, 50/f1.4, 90/f2.8 , APO135/f3.4 & R8 lens 24/f2.8 minilux, binocular 10x42.........and digital... - To be cont'l- |
and.t![]() 219.xxx.xxx.44 |
2005-10-02 19:54 |
[#51] Leica Club Incredible81: M3, M4, M6, M6 0.85 x 2, M6 TTL Dragon, M7, MP Black Paint, R8 Lens: 21/2.8 ASPH, 28/2 ASPH, 35/2 8 Elements, 35/2.8 Summaron, 35/3.5, 35/2 ASPH, 50/2.8, 50/2, 50/1.4 Black Paint, 75/1.4, 90/2.8, 90/2AA, Angelieux 35/2.5, 135/4. R35/2.8, R50/1.4, R100/2.8 APO Macro, R180/2.8 APO Still want to buy more... I love Leica... |
incredible81![]() 219.xxx.xxx.151 |
2005-10-02 20:07 |
[#52] Leica Club Hi. Anyone has comment on the R 21mm/F4 Superangulon? |
live![]() 219.xxx.xxx.134 |
2005-10-02 22:50 |
[#53] Leica Club I used to have the R21/4 Superangulon . It was made by Scheneider. The colour reproduction is slightly different from those by Leica . A bit cool, the resolution and colour are top class. It is very bulky. I sold it with the R 7 and took the M series . Any way , it is an excellent len at 21mm. |
ksl![]() 210.xxx.xxx.67 |
2005-10-02 23:15 |
[#54] Leica Club New comers, please fill out the user list: 1.Pang : M6 (35/F2 and 50/F2) 2.Stanfield: M4P (was) 3.Rayan: FZ-10 4.Yukclee: M3 DS + M6, Lenses:50/F2,28/F2.8,35/F2,90/F2.8 5.And.t: M4+M6TTL+R6.2, Lenses: M35/1.4,M50/F2,R24/F2.4,R35/2,R100/F2.8 marco 6.2A3: M6TTL (what lenses) 7.xellshooter: Fx-7(ex-user),Lx-1(current). Leica manual film fans. hope one day I get one ^^ cheers 8.lo5boy: M6TTL + 50mm/F2.8 +35mm/F2 (looking for a LX1, leica? panasonic? 9.sugizo: Minilux zoom with flash light set. 10. Lion: M6, lens 21/f2.8, 28/f2.8, 50/f1.4, 90/f2.8 , APO135/f3.4 & R8 lens 24/f2.8 minilux, binocular 10x42.........and digital... 11. BenYC: M6HM, M6 - 21/2.8, 35/2, 50/2, 50/1, 75/1.4 90/2.8. R4, R6.2, R8, R9 - 19/2.8, 24/2.8, 35/2, 50/2, 80/1.4, 100/2.8, 135/2.8, 70-180/2.8, 28-70 zoom Minilux zoom IIIf + 50 |
BenYC![]() 219.xxx.xxx.154 |
2005-10-04 23:52 |
[#55] Leica Club M5, M6 Classic, CL, 21/f3.4 Super Angulon, 35/f1.4, 35/f2.0, 50/f1.4, 90/f2.0, 90/f4... but all were sold on 2003 |
*DIY*![]() 221.xxx.xxx.116 |
2005-10-04 23:57 |
[#56] Leica Club I still miss my like new condition M5 Chrome 3-lug..... >_< |
*DIY*![]() 221.xxx.xxx.116 |
2005-10-05 00:02 |
[#57] Leica Club Good to know this club. I have many leica stuff, both R, M and old IIIg, IIg, Leica I, and so on... Besides my wife, two lovely kids, and my life... Leica will be stay with my for the rest of my time... I also played digital, from Nikon D1 - Canon 5D... I still like Leica. The first picture and.t hing used 35mm at f8.0 or f11. Very rich color because using Fuji film. For 35mm f1.4 problem, I think swc hing requires to test the len back to repair center. BTW, there is only one reason to use 35mm at f1.4, the image should not be away from you more than 1.5 meters. Who will care about the coners of the frame? I knew a good friend, Mr. Zhou Hai, a prof in China. He used M6 and 35mm f1.4 over 10 years. He lived in the minning field over 2 years for his workshops. He always told me that if you like Leica M, you did not need more than 3 lens; 35mm, 50mm, 90mm. this is his web site for your reference: http://www.zhouhai.com/index/IntroductionFrame.htm |
leicatam![]() 203.xxx.xxx.98 |
2005-10-05 03:17 |
[#58] Leica Club Hi all Leica fans, Any comments on Leica's digital cameras ?? Thanks. |
rickymartin![]() 202.xxx.xxx.253 |
2005-10-05 11:51 |
[#59] Leica Club I sugest Pro. Zhou to replace the 50mm to 21mm. He can get more dynamic pictures. |
ksl![]() 202.xxx.xxx.253 |
2005-10-05 11:52 |
[#60] Leica Club leicatam hing Thanks for your advise, but the 35mm.f1.4 lenses i tried was about in the year 1984, when i bought from Kinefoto and took several photos at fully opened aperture just for testing its performance. The result came out to be very soft across the entire frame which was not a usable f stop for practical use. I then swap for another one from Kinefoto, but with same result. I ended up purchased the f2/35mm. instead. I did inquire Ho Yi Yam, a then master in repairing Leica M in HK, about the problem. His answer confirmed my finding. Agree with you the f1.4 aperture is only suitable for close distance and under low lighting condition. If you really wanted to have M f1.4/35mm in the 1980's or earlier days, you got no choice but have to accept its limitation. But considering the price difference between the f2 and f1.4, the f2 was a better choice. Yes, it is quite ture, for M series you need only 3 lenses as Mr.Zhou indicated. Especially in the field of photography he is specialised in, industrial photo-journalist I presume, no other camera will out-perform the Leica M series. IMHO |
swc![]() 219.xxx.xxx.207 |
2005-10-05 14:51 |
[#61] Leica Club Hello M friends here, I am wondering why is 35/1.4 at wide open only good for close distance? Shouldn't it be the contrary as the depth of field is so shallow at 1.4 and the focusing system in M is kind of limiting. Hope friends here can share some experience here. Cheers. |
BenYC![]() 203.xxx.xxx.178 |
2005-10-05 18:04 |
[#62] Leica Club BenYC hing, It is rather difficult to explain. In theory, it shouldn't be. Actually if the performance at wide open is unacceptable with major abberations such as low contrast, softening of images with vignetting and flare...etc., then it won't give any good result no matter taking shots of close distance or at infinity. However, sometimes when shooting under unfavourable condition where the weakness of the lens is not emphasised, we might consider its performance as acceptable. Since everyone with photographic knowledge knows that the depth of field is shallow at f1.4, especially at close distance shots, it could be as small as only few inches or even less, thus hiding up some of the lens abberation affecting the shot. It fools the viewer that the effect is caused by the environment or physical property rather than lens abberations. IMHO only. BTW the focusing system in M has nothing to do with the depth of field. May be i misunderstood what you meant. |
swc![]() 61.xxx.xxx.31 |
2005-10-06 00:44 |
[#63] Leica Club Hi SWC hing, Thanks for your comment. I am a M user but as much as I like my camera, I do hate it for a few things. One of them being so hard to focus near object with big aperture len wide open. This is especially impossible if the focusing object is off center. Thus, I usually do just the opposite when shooting near object - I will step down and take advantage of the smooth shuttle to hand held longer. From my experience, a 50mm len can held held at 1/8 and get stable image with ease. For long distance stuff... I will go wide open if I feel like. Am I the only one doing this? Curious. (You know M6 is more like a cult camera....) Cheers. Ben P.S. I still don't understand why film loading is so inconvinence... why M7 is electronic... :) |
BenYC![]() 203.xxx.xxx.178 |
2005-10-07 14:36 |
[#64] Leica Club Great stuff and.t Love slides, it just have an analogue feel hard to be rivalled. Anyway, haven't used my M6 for a while, last was a black and white at a wedding. Nothing compares with a Leica and like you was rather distraught to hear of its financial woes. But bound to happen. Its 135 format is a huge limitation as DC has rivalled that to many people. Hasselblad is still surviving... Was thinking before how Leica can be saved, can't think of how at all. Wish them luck. Please kindly add me. M6TTL LHSA 0.72 Sumilux 75mm/1.4 (Contax & Rollei too :) |
kowkow![]() 203.xxx.xxx.63 |
2005-10-07 15:05 |
[#65] Leica Club SWC and BenYc, Just sharing but don't take it serious. I have heard that a camera repairman may damage the glass element by over polish a glass piece, especially there was mold eroded badly !!!! If the old version M 35 F1.4 is really that bad, then it is not hard to find the picture in this style in many Japanese camera books. But it is OK, since SWC has send them all out. Agreed with BenYc, But the most annoying thing is not changing films to my M, it is my wife to keep complaining me why take so long to load a film roll. "See the other shooters have moved up far and occupied the great sceneic spots, and the tour bus would not wait for you.............. !!!" Those great German made cameras would not concern the word of "ergonomic", even the R8 and R9 are made for the big hands, comparing with the EOS1 side by side you would know what I mean. Some products like Hassle 500 Classic, you may ask "Where is the hand rest for my left hand to hold the "Box" and how I work the best when I rolling the winding crook."I guess the common mind set of these camera designers is requiring the users to take some lessons to get in use of them. Getting the information of lens perspective, depth of field, accurate focusing, is not the selling point of Ms. The advanced model of these range finder cameras should be SLR. A real "shoot what you see" type camera. I used my both Ms to do the focusing test with my lenses. A simple test is put a scale rule and with slightly titled. The scale start (say scale marked at 1cm) is pointing to me and the end is away. Focus at 10cm, wide open the aperture, then press the shuttle & etc. When I got the prints, I noted an interesting thing. All lenses has slight off focus......!! One get sharp in 11cm and one get 9.5 near 10.....!! I am sure that the service centre can tight up the tolerance of anyone lens with one body ( they have to be tuned in a set, in order to get the best result), but it may off centre when you swap in another lens work with the same body.....! Therefore it is not a test for lens' focus accurance. But a lesson to you know them better, than you can work with them better. It is Leica not Hexar or EOS. If you own a SWC, in terms of loading film and focusing you know it's even worst to operate than the Ms, and so mar fan.... It isn't designed for any accurate focus even it is possible but the complicated steps is no way an user friendly design at all. Have fun to work with your person gems. |
and.t![]() 210.xxx.xxx.17 |
2005-10-07 20:35 |
[#66] Leica Club Thanks and.t for the comment. Guess I may as well bash Leica M a bit... 1. Film loading is stupid 2. No grip 3. No markings on frame line for the forgetables 4. Tripod hole not on the axle 5. Viewfinder being blocked by most lens M7 is even more pathetic.. a wannabe "advanced" camera that lost the heritage of M..... |
BenYC![]() 203.xxx.xxx.5 |
2005-10-08 00:06 |
[#67] Leica Club and.t hing, May be you've mistaken that the M 35 f1.4 lenses i tries were used items. No, they were brand new units in maker's box. That's why it made i believe that it was a fault in the design to make the lens to such large aperture, althought it was already great in 1961 without any computer aid. Mr. Ho's comment was also referring to new lenses, not used one. Erwin Puts's comment for this lens on the Leica web site you recommended also concurred with the shortcomming in performance at full aperture. A description of this lens in the Leica Pocket Book published by Hove Collectors has similar results. Totally agreed that if a lens has been repaired for whatever reasons, its performance could not be justified. Certainly this is not a bad lens, I only had reservation for its performance at full aperture that could not justify its much higher price than the 35mm f2 of the same generation. By stopping down to f2 or more, it certainly retained what you called Leica quality or taste. IMHO BenYc hing, ^^One of them being so hard to focus near object with big aperture len wide open. This is especially impossible if the focusing object is off center^^ Wide opening the lens doesn't affect the focusing of a rangefinder camera like the Leica M, may be what you meant is the depth of field/or depth of focus. The depth of field is affected by 3 factors: 1) The permissible diameter of circle of confusion in the negative. 2) f number 3) The image size, i.e. the ratio of reproduction. The 1st factor refers to resolving power of the lens and film emulsion when prints made are examined under a correct distance with allowance for any degree of enlargement. Most photographers ignor this since it is beyond their control. In your case, it is the 2nd 3rd factor which decreases the depth of field with a little deviation in focus. If the rangefinder of your camera is properly calibrated by the service centre, there shouldn't be problem in focusing any object within its focusing range. It is indeed a little inconvenient when the object is off centre. On the contrary, when using wide angle lens under low lighting condition, my experience is: a rangefinder camera can focus much easier than a manual focus SLR. The easy of focus of a SLR is affected by factors like: speed and focal length of the lens, brightness of screen ...etc. All these factors will not apply to rangefinder focusing. The only drawback is that you have to focus with the small pasted rectangle in the centre. Anyway, to increase the depth of field by stopping down is a general practic to photographers. No offence to and.t, just interested to know when you did the focusing test, was it 10cm that the lens was focused at as mentioned? Happy shooting & listening |
swc![]() 61.xxx.xxx.31 |
2005-10-08 00:30 |